They told me to go back to the beginning...

This whole experience has been completely surreal. Now as I sit on a 747 five and a half hours from Seoul, I'm realizing that this is actually happening. Many of you have been along for the ride (either in person or on Facebook), so you've heard bits and pieces of the evolution of this journey. But for the rest of you, here's the story.

One year ago I was taking my 4th brutal quarter in a row for my second degree at Ohio State University. I went to an info session for international affairs, because several schools I was considering for grad school were to attend, answer questions, and advise. It was very informative and I stayed after to speak with the admissions director at Tufts in Boston, my #1 pick. She told me that I seemed to be a strong candidate, but to have a great advantage I really needed some international experience of at least 3-6 months. I had been dreaming of living overseas for years, but thought I could never afford to do it. But the Tufts recruiter re-sparked ideas, and really set the ball rolling.

I first looked into study abroad options, but quickly realized that I couldn't work out financial aid to cover a quarter abroad while also paying tuition at home. So that was out.

I looked into and found tons of great-looking volunteering abroad opportunities, but most of them have hefty fees, and airfare and basic living expenses are extra. I found one volunteer opp. that sounded perfect--and there's no cost to participate--but there's still the airfare and living expenses to consider. And at that point (Oct/Nov 2008) I had been looking for a part-time job while in school for 10 months with no luck, so I thought that this too would be impossible.

But through it all I kept coming across teaching positions in Asia, my area of choice. As Bangkok was the goal (or anywhere in Thailand for that matter), that's where I focused my search. What I kept running into was a need for ESL certification, which I do not possess. There's a good one-month intensive program in Thailand (and elsewhere) that I decided I wanted to take, but it also cost around $1500 USD. No good. I decided I might have to find an ESL job elsewhere first, then go to Bangkok.

Winter quarter was awful for a lot of reasons, and I got virtually nothing done on this front. In April I was looking at jobs in South Korea and others, and was just to the point of total frustration when I was contacted about a job in England, teaching a private family. I went for it because it seemed too good to be true, and it was. A month later I was expecting to receive my visa, when I discovered it was a scam. Luckily, I'm just cynical and distrusting enough to have made a backup plan. I went ahead and applied for my financial aid and scheduled classes for summer quarter just in case, which turned out to be the safety net I used.

The 2009 summer of death started with my dog Bailey. Mid-May I had both of my dogs at the vet for a full exam and tests to make sure both of them would be okay to travel overseas. Both were fine--actually better than fine. Two weeks later England fell through, and within 2 weeks my Boo developed a crazy-fast cancer in his abdomen, which grew into 4 tumors. His belly became so distended that caused him so much pain. We found out on Wednesday. That night we had McDonald's cheeseburgers and fries for dinner and went home. The next day I wanted to take Bailey to do something fun like go to the park, but he wasn't up for it. We had Wendy's Jr. Bacon Cheeseburgers, his favorite. He died Friday morning, June 19th.







I moved that weekend to a sublet close to campus, and classes started on Monday. It was absolutely awful. But, on the good side, I was so busy for the next 5 weeks that I couldn't focus on my heartbreak. Bailey was the Bestest Boy in the Whole World, the best that any mom could ever hope for, and he is sorely missed.

Classes ended at the end of July, and I was able to focus on job hunting. Korea easily won me over. Financially, teaching ESL in Korea can't be beat anywhere (especially in this economy). Most schools pay your round-trip airfare (you get the return ticket at the end of your contract) and your housing, a super bonus. You can reasonably save 50-75% of your salary, even if you travel some and shop a bit. You certainly can't do that in the US. Most of the Korean people I spoke with were very nice and friendly, and the photos they sent were just beautiful. So, I decided to outsource myself.

I should just come out and tell you that I'm very picky. I don't mean to be, but I feel that I know better than a stranger what size town (I like 'em big), type of school, etc. that will make me happier than other options. Plus, I had to bring my other dog Hayes with me. He's a 12 year old Samoyed/Spaniel mix that I've had since he was a puppy. It was not an option to go without him. If I had to, I said I would not go abroad until I no longer had him. I found several offers that would have worked but for him, and it took me about a month to find something good that we could both go for.

Once the director offered me the position and the contract was signed, things were supposed to move very quickly--like 2 weeks start to finish. But I was warned that because I had to get my visa from the Chicago Korean Consulate, things would take longer. Apparently they're notorious. And it did take forever. Lots of scheduling and rescheduling and more and more hoops to jump through. I received my passport and visa on Monday. Today's Weds. and I'm on the plane. All told, instead of 2 weeks, it was almost 4.

But enough about the drama.

Because I've been planning and researching for so long, even as I sit here mid-flight it doesn't seem like it's really happening. It probably won't until I wake up for the 1st time in my apartment.

My flight was to leave Columbus for Chicago at 9am, and then on to Seoul, then a bus to my city (roughly 4 hours away), for a total traveling time of approx. 24 hours. Woohoo! Factor in time change, and leaving at 9am Weds in Columbus means arriving at 4pm Thurs in South Korea (ROK), before getting on the bus.

My dad was set to pick me up at 6am. At 1am, my recruiter called to tell me that we had an urgent problem that she was trying to resolve. My dog would not be allowed on the bus or train, although it had previously been allowed. Short version: After 8 phone calls from Korea and 30 emails back and forth we negotiated a decent solution. Taxi. Expensive as hell, but we worked out a lower rate than asked, and the recruiting agency is paying part because of their mistake. The school will pay up front, and I will pay some later. Whatev. At this point---

That was resolved around 4am. Then I realized that one of my carry-ons would be too big for the American flight (I didn't want to get charged $50), so at 430 I was repacking my suitcases to eliminate a bag. Seriously--moving abroad for a year requires more than 2 suitcases. Oh well--I left my dad the last-minute reject box, so if I really need something and can't find it here, he'll mail it.

The Columbus airport was super easy. Skycap helped cart the kennel and baggage inside and the ticket counter woman at American actually cared (or faked it well), and honestly I don't care which. The dog got on the plane okay, and I didn't beep through security. And there was a Starbucks within 30 yards of security, so even after zero sleep all was right with the world.



The gate agent obviously loathed her existence, and the plane was late coming in, but we still pushed on time. Awesome. I talked to a lovely woman on the plane who was interviewing in Chicago and would be home for dinner. I envied her short trip a bit.



Cloud shadows on Lake Michigan.



Approaching Chicago.




Chicago O'Hare. [pause for groans from anyone who has ever been there]

Okay, get this. My bags were checked to Incheon (Seoul). The dog was not. I had to claim him at Terminal 3 Baggage Claim and magically get us to ticketing at Terminal 5. It literally took me 35 minutes to find someone with a cart big enough for the kennel, and he had an attitude, and wouldn't take us. Another life-hater, I presume.

After a difficult process, we arrived intact at Korean Air's ticket counter, where knowledgable and friendly people made everything easy. Then I waitied another 20 mins for another guy with a big cart to escort us to TSA to screen him. TSA's screening area is--no lie--a half mile down an endless hallway from where we checked in. The guy walked faster than me, and as he inched further away, Hayes-y began to whimper, fearing I was leaving him again. It was heart-wrenching. He was screened, and we walked the half-mile back to security. Hayes' escort had put another, much smaller, dog on the cart also, and as they inched further away he whined again, and then disappeared behind an employee door.

Security was slow but thankfully uneventful. No beeps. Woohoo! What can I say? I'm a TSA pro.

I arrived at the gate and saw the cutest group of 12 FA's I have ever seen. Think Asian chic meets airline apparel. I wanted to get a picture, but felt too much like a tourist to do so.



Korean Air, 747.

Then I heard the agents paging for Jason Shaw. And I thought, "No way can it possibly be my friend from OREN Jason Shaw." (He is supposed to be in Asia already traveling.) And a moment later, there he was, the one I know. He and his GF are 24 rows ahead of me right now. Literally. I'm in row 57, just next to an emergency exit, and in front of one set of lavs. I've gotten to know during this trip the people who have to pee more than others. :)



Inside the plane, getting situated.

I've taken pictures out the window of the countries we're flying over. We basically went straight north from Chicago, up thru way northern Canada and into the Arctic Circle--SUPER COOL! At some point we flew over the northernmost bit of Alaska, but I think I was watching X-Men Origins: Wolverine during that time. I saw icebergs and melting ice sheets, several Canadian glaciers, and crazy snow-covered mountains in Russia, which I'm over now. 3 1/2 hours to go. I also saw a snaky-squiggly thing in Russia that went on for miles and miles--don't know what that is--I'll try to look it up online. At first I thought it was the Great Wall, but that's way too far south.



Melting Arctic ice caps. Yes, Virginia, they do exist.





Ice cap and clouds.



Russia. What is this?



Snow-capped Russian mountains.





Russia or far northeastern China, not sure which.

Oh, and about the plane-- Economy class has lots of legroom and comfy seats on Korean Air. I've been fed TWO amazing free meals, 3 snacks, 3 juices (tangerine), 2 other beverages, 2 waters, 3 coffees followed by a 2nd FA each time with teas, and a hot towel. My previous itinerary on United would have charged me for the single offered meal, with sporadic bevs.



Our lunch (meal #1), Korean Bibimbap, fruit, et al.

And I'm diggin' not only KAL but Korean culture already because the absolute second people finished eating each meal they darted (and formed a considerable line) to the restroom to brush their teeth with the provided toothbrush and toothpaste.

My personal seat-back video monitor has 50 or so movies (some of which aren't even on DVD yet), and a satellite/global/pilot view showing real-time photos of our flight. So rockin.



Pilot's view over the Arctic.



Our route.

Oh, and to qwell the curiosity: planes fly faster than the Earth rotates, so when traveling west 13,000 miles, you chase dawn, so it is daylight the entire way. FYI.